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Zebegény |
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At ZEBEGÉNY , 5km further along the bank of the river from Nagymaros,
where the Danube turns south, the excellent light and the magnificent
view of the Bend have lured painters for years. Most of this
exceptionally pretty village lies to the east of the rail tracks. From
Route 12 you pass under the train station and immediately come to the
distinctive Catholic Church (1908-14), the only one in Hungary to be
built in the National Romantic style, an amalgam of Art Nouveau and folk
art, designed by Károly Kós. Inside, frescoes by Aladár Körösfoi Kriesch
depict Emperor Constantine's vision of finding the Holy Cross in
Jerusalem with his mother, St Helena. Five minutes' walk behind the
church over the stream and down to the right brings you to one of
Zebegény's curiosities, the so-called Museum of Navigation and Seafaring
People at Szonyi utca 9 (April-Oct daily 9am-6pm; 400Ft), housing the
bizarre private collection of Captain Vince Farkas, who has sailed the
world and amassed some nifty carved figureheads in the process (though
how tigers and totem poles fit in is a puzzle). Following Szonyi utca
for another ten minutes brings you Bartóky József utca, where at no. 7
you'll find the memorial house and studio of one of Zebegény's best-known
artists, István Szonyi, who died in 1960 (March-Oct Tues-Sun 10am-6pm;
Nov-Feb Fri-Sun 10am-4pm; 200Ft). Szonyi first began to paint here, and
the house hosts an international art school every summer.
If you're looking to stay , there are several Zimmer frei ten minutes'
walk past the church along Kossuth utca. Five minutes further on, over
the stream to the left, is the Malomkerék Vendégfogadó at Malom utca 21,
(tel 27/373-010, www.malomkerek.tsx.org ; 3000-5000Ft), which also acts
as the information office for the village; the guesthouse has a couple
of apartments and a pool and you can also rent bicycles and canoes.
Twenty minutes' walk further on, right at the edge of the village, the
Almáskert Pension at Almáskert utca 13 (tel 27/373-037; 3000-5000Ft) has
balconied rooms overlooking a silky lawn. If the prospect of a room
directly overlooking the river appeals, five minutes' walk from the
church (under the railway, left on the main road, left and then first
right) brings you to cheap rooms at Táncsics Mihály utca 2 (tel
27/373-255; under 3000Ft). There is a more luxurious option 1km to the
south at the modern Kenderes Hotel on Dózsa György út 26 (tel & fax
27/373-444, kenderes@dunaweb.hu ; 5000-10,000Ft), where rooms have a
bathroom, television and safe; you can also rent water-sport equipment
and use the sauna and swimming pool.
The restaurants in the Almáskert and Kenderes are the best places to eat
, the latter serving some Balkan and Transylvanian dishes. Nagymaros and
Szob are the nearest alternatives for accommodation, or you could take
the ferry across to Pilismarót on the west bank to stay at Dömös,
Esztergom or Visegrád.
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