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Visegrád |
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When the hillsides start to plunge and the river twists, keep your
eyes fixed on the mountains to the west for a first glimpse of the
citadel and ramparts of VISEGRÁD , 23km north of Szentendre. The citadel
is almost as it appeared to János Thuroczy in 1488, who described its "upper
walls stretching to the clouds floating in the sky, and the lower
bastions reaching down as far as the river". At that time, courtly life
in Visegrád, the royal seat, was nearing its apogee, and the palace of
King Mátyás and Queen Beatrice was famed throughout Europe. The papal
legate Cardinal Castelli described it as a "paradiso terrestri",
seemingly unperturbed by the presence of Vlad the Impaler, who resided
here under duress between 1462 and 1475.
Tucked in between the hills and the river as the Danube flows north,
Visegrád is a compact town, with most local activity centred around the
ferry and the church. The three main historical sites all lie north of
the centre: the Royal Palace and Solomon's Tower down near the river,
and the citadel perching on top of the hill above. All the river sites
are in easy walking distance, but you might prefer taking a bus up to
the citadel if the climb is too forbidding. While here, you can also
visit the surrounding Visegrád Hills , boasting gorgeous views, and
providing an unexpected but appropriate setting for several works by the
visionary architect Imre Makovecz. Though the ruins can be visited on a
flying visit, the hills require a full day and a fair amount of walking,
with the option of longer hikes or pony-trekking.
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