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Vác |
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The town of VÁC , 40km north of Budapest, has a worldlier past than
its present sleepy atmosphere suggests, the result being that you can
enjoy its architectural heritage in relative peace. Its bishops
traditionally showed a flair for self-promotion, like the cardinals of
Esztergom, endowing monuments and colleges. Under Turkish occupation
(1544-1686), Vác assumed an oriental character, with seven mosques and a
public hammam , while during the Reform Era it was linked to Budapest by
Hungary's first rail line (the second continued to Bratislava). In 1849
two battles were fought at Vác, the first a victory for the town over
the Austrian army, followed a few months later by a defeat in July 1849
when the town was captured; the battles are commemorated by a bright
green obelisk by the main road from Budapest, shortly before you enter
the town. More recently Vác became notorious for its prison, which has
one of the toughest regimes in the country and was used to incarcerate
leftists under Admiral Horthy and "counter-revolutionaries" under
Communism. Though Vác's legacy of sights justifies a visit, it's not
worth staying unless you're planning to visit Vácrátót or Zebegény, or
are coming specially for the annual festival at the end of July.
The Town
From the stately Március 15 tér , which rivals Szentendre for its
handsome mélange of Baroque and Rococo, narrow streets and steps on one
side lead down to the river, ferries and the riverside promenade, with
the prison and Triumphal Arch to the north. To the south lie most of the
main sights.
The Baroque style evolved into a fine art here, as evinced by the
gorgeous decor of the Dominican church on the south side of the square.
Opposite the church at no. 19 is an exhibition on the finds of the
church crypt; the chilly medieval cellar holds three mummified corpses
and an assortment of clothes and other burial accessories. At no. 6
stands the original Bishop's Palace, converted into Hungary's first
Institute for the Deaf and Dumb in 1802. It was Bishop Kristóf Migazzi
(1714-1803) who erected Vac's Cathedral and the Baroque Town Hall across
the square, its gable adorned with two prostrate females bearing the
coats of arms of Hungary and of Migazzi himself. During his years as
Bishop of Vác (1762-86), this ambitious prelate was the moving force
behind Vác's eighteenth-century revival, impressing Empress Maria
Theresa sufficiently to make him Archbishop of Vienna.
There's a colourful and lively market selling flowers, fruit and
vegetables in the sidestreet behind the Dominican church, and further
down on Káptalan utca the Hincz Museum (Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; 300Ft) gives
a brief overview of the town's history, including some excellent photos.
You will also find works by the local artist who gives his name to the
museum upstairs on one side of the entrance way, and temporary displays
on the other side.
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