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GETTING AROUND |
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Although it doesn't break any speed records, public transport
reaches most parts of Hungary and, despite steady price increases,
remains remarkably cheap. Regional transport schedules are summarized
under "Travel Details" at the end of each section
Hungarian transport terms
Finding out travel information ( információ ) can be your biggest
problem, since transport staff rarely speak anything but Hungarian,
which is also the only language used for notices and announcements (except
around Lake Balaton, where German is widely spoken). The following
should be useful for deciphering timetables .
Érkezo járatok (or érkezés ) means " arrivals ", and induló járatok (or
indulás ) " departures ".
Trains or buses to ( hova ) a particular destination leave from a
designated platform (for example vágány 1 ) or bus-stand ( kocsiállás );
and the point of arrival for services from ( honnan ) a place may also
be indicated.
Some services run ( közlekedik, köz . for short) munkaszüneti napok
kivételével naponta köz - daily, except on holidays , meaning Sunday and
public holidays; munkanapkon ( hetfotol-péntekig ) köz - weekdays,
Monday to Friday ; munkaszüneti napokon köz - on holidays ; or 09.30-tól
délig vasárnap köz - on Sunday 9.30am-noon .
Átszállás means " change "; át " via "; and kivételével " except ".
Trains
The centralization of the MÁV rail network means that many cross-country
journeys are easier if you travel via Budapest rather than on branch
lines where services are slower and less frequent. Timetables displayed
in stations are in yellow (for departures) or white (for arrivals), with
the different types of fast trains picked out in red. By far the fastest
are the InterCity ("IC" on the timetable) trains, which run express
services between Budapest and Miskolc, Szeged and other larger towns;
don't be misled by Express trains (marked "Ex" on timetables) - although
they stop at major centres only, and cost ten percent more than
gyorsvonat and sebesvonat services, which stop more regularly, they are
still pretty slow. The slowest trains ( személyvonat ) halt at every
hamlet along the way, and since the fare is the same as on a gyorsvonat
, you might as well opt for the latter. It's not worth using
international trains for journeys within Hungary, since they are
expensive and not always faster.
Most trains have first- and second-class sections, and many also feature
a buffet car (indicated on timetables). Second-class trains have PVC
seats and can be uncomfortable and crowded. First class offers slightly
more comfort. International services routed through Budapest have
sleeping cars and couchettes ( hálókocsi and kusett ), for which tickets
can be bought at MÁV offices in advance, or sometimes on the train
itself. Bicycles ( bicikli ) can be carried on most passenger trains (you
have to buy a separate bicycle ticket, which is around 25 percent of the
full ticket price); look for the bicycle pictogram on the timetable.
Some trains have special carriages with stands for bikes; otherwise, you
must go to the first or last carriage.
If you're planning to travel by rail extensively, it's worth investing
in one of the timetables available from the MÁV office in Budapest at VI,
Andrássy út 35 (tel 1/322-8082), or large train stations. Train services
(domestic and international) are covered by the chunky Hivatalos
Menetrend (650Ft; note that the larger format version has no extra
information), which also has details of the narrow-gauge lines and boat
and ferry services on the Danube and the Balaton; an English-language
section at the front explains the symbols used. You can also check train
information on the website www.mav.hu , although it is in Hungarian only.
Buses
Buses from Budapest are generally comfortable, though the stock in the
rest of the country can be quite ropey. Regional Volán companies run the
bulk of Hungary's buses , which are called busz (pronounced "boose" as
in "loose", not "bus", which means "fuck" in Hungarian). Buses are often
the quickest way to travel between towns, and while fares are higher
than on the trains they're still good value. Fares are calculated by
distance travelled; to give you some idea, a 100km trip costs around
1000Ft. Schedules are clearly displayed in bus stations (
autóbuszállomás or autóbusz pályaudvar ) in every Hungarian town. Arrive
early to confirm the departure bay ( kocsiállás ) and to be sure of
getting a seat. For long-distance services originating in Budapest or
major towns, you can buy tickets with a seat booking up to half an hour
before departure; after that you get them from the driver, but you risk
standing throughout the journey. You can also reserve seats up to thirty
days in advance. Services in rural areas may be limited to one or two a
day, and tickets are only available on board the bus. As on trains,
children under four travel free unless they occupy a separate seat, and
there is a 33 percent discount for children up to the age of ten;
otherwise there are no concessions.
Volán also operates international services to neighbouring countries and
a few points further west. The main depot for these is Erzsébet tér in
Budapest, but services also run from provincial towns like Siófok,
Szombathely, Gyor, Miskolc, Szeged, Baja, Mohács and Debrecen. It's
fractionally cheaper to travel from Budapest to Vienna by bus, but other
destinations may cost less by train.
Urban public transport
Public transport within towns is generally excellent, with buses,
trolleybuses ( trolibusz ) and trams ( villamos ) running from dawn
until around 10.30 or 11pm. Express buses (numbered in red) halt only at
main stops, while express buses whose number is accompanied by a red "E"
run almost non-stop between termini, so be careful about boarding these.
However, in Budapest a black "E" signifies a night bus or éjszakai
járatok , which runs all night on main bus and tram routes.
Tickets for all services are sold at tobacconists and street stands, and
should be punched on board the vehicle. Municipalities set their own
flat rates, causing a slight variation in prices nationwide, but you
should reckon on paying around 100Ft for a single ticket in most places.
Generally, the local fare for all transport is identical, so the same
kind of ticket can be used on all services, but tickets from one town
aren't supposed to be used in another. In Budapest, a whole host of
different passes are available, whilst in some of the larger towns, such
as Miskolc and Pécs, it's possible to buy day passes for use on trams
and buses.
Planes and boats
Malév doesn't operate any domestic flights , but many of their flights
abroad (departing from Budapest's Ferihegy airport) are a good deal. If
you're heading on to Greece or Turkey, they may prove an attractive
alternative to travelling by train; if you are under 25 you qualify for
a discount of up to fifteen percent.
Between April and October the Mahart company operates domestic and
international passenger boats . Services run on the section of the
Danube running through the capital; between Budapest and Esztergom (via
Szentendre and Visegrád); and on Lake Balaton (where there is also a car
ferry operating between March and November). International hydrofoil
services also operate between Budapest and Vienna (via Bratislava)
between April and October.
Bikes and motorbikes
The only potential drawback to motorcycling is that obtaining spare
parts may be a problem should you have a breakdown. Motorcyclists must
be over 18, wear a helmet, and have a log book or other registration
document, plus a Green Card for insurance. The rules of the road (and
speed limits) are the same as for cars.
Given the generally flat terrain, and the light winds and low rainfall
from July until the end of September, cycling is also a good way to get
around Hungary. There's a growing number of cycle paths in the country,
indicating an increasing awareness of the cycling community. However,
there are several caveats for cyclists. They are not allowed on main
roads (with single-digit numbers), and on some secondary roads in "peak
hours" (7-9.30am and 4-6pm). In towns, there are sunken tramlines and
slippery cobbled streets to contend with. The most scenic areas are the
Northern Uplands, the Danube Bend and parts of Transdanubia and the
Bakony, where you'll find a few stiff climbs and lots of rolling hills.
Conversely, the easiest cycling terrain, the Great Plain, tends to be
rather monotonous visually.
By car
Although road traffic has increased significantly in recent years and
many minor roads are still in poor condition, driving in Hungary is
fairly hassle-free. Motorways and dual carriageways are fine to drive on
but single lane and country roads tend to be busy and much less pleasant.
It's also worth being aware of the tendency for Hungarian motorists to
overtake at absurdly dangerous moments.
To drive in Hungary you'll need your driving licence and third-party
insurance . If you're taking your own car, check with your insurance
company to see if you're covered; you'll probably need a Green Card .
You can also purchase insurance at the border, but this only covers
damage to third parties in Hungary and pays out in forints, so it's
wiser to fix it up before leaving home.
Autostop or hitchhiking is widely practised by young Magyars, and only
forbidden on motorways. A fair number of drivers seem willing to give
lifts although communicating may be a problem. Hitching is considered
pretty safe although, as anywhere, it's a potentially risky business and
if you do decide to travel this way, you should take all sensible
precautions. Women should never hitch alone, nor is hitching at night
advisable.
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